Dubrovnik, Croatia - Paradise On Earth

“Pearl of the Adriatic,” enthused George Bernard Shaw after his visit.

“Those who seek Paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik,” he said.  

View of Old City from my Guest House

It's easy to see why UNESCO deemed it a World Heritage site in 1979.

I'm staying at a guest house overlooking the Old Town of Dubrovnik. 

The view is amazing. Don't you agree?

But the world almost lost it. My host explains the terror during the 1991-92 siege. 

Mortars from surrounding hillsides hit nearly 80% of the roofs. His mother and family struggled for water and food just to stay alive.

Street life during the year of the siege

Hearing him and seeing the intensity brings history of this siege, like the others that inflicted the Balkans, into an embarrassing awareness. 

Frankly, I know little about the flood of warfare that engulfed the Balkans in the 1990s.

Walls in a museum pay tribute to the men whose lives ended during the siege

A YouTube search helps to fill in my ignorance. I start watching a BBC documentary.  Here's the Link - The Death of Yugoslavia. 

Slowly, I'm beginning to understand what happened after Tito's death and xenophobes gained power. The worse of fear and suspicion and hatred took over. Crazed leaders manipulated the people resulting in Hell on earth...at least for a time.

Meeting a young child along the way

Today I'm walking the wall that encloses the Old City. Much has been restored. Investments from abroad and the hard-work of the people is bring the luster back to the “pearl.” It's a wonder although if you look closely, there are still scars and need for on-going work.

They tell me it's about a 2 hour trek, but at my speed, I'll double it.  

Whatever, I think it's a glorious day to be exploring “Paradise Restored." 

Let's go - up and down and around

Can you spot the few roofs that have NOT been replaced?

Church stands proud  and sea glistens 

I wish that was me in a  kayak 

 

See the different roof colors.
 Nearly 80% had been destroyed

Dubrovnik is a living city alive with daily life

I talk with this man about his garden

Former fishing and trading harbor,
now serves tourists

Fortification scared from war

Mesmerized by the crystal clear water

Colors of Paradise

Tito's Train

At every station along the way, an attendant stands at attention
and signals the train onward

Here I go for a journey on the Tito train line.  It leaves Belgrade for Bar  Montenegro.   Unlike the luxury cars of Tito's time, passengers sit six to a compartment.  

The seats are covered in plush velvet though no longer prime time.  Think shabby and somewhat stained.  It's an old old train.  Still I'm not here for luxury, but rather the spectacular scenery that lies ahead.  

It's named for Tito since he had it built during his 35 years as leader of Yugoslavia and used it frequently.  

Learn more about the Tito's train in this video.

Concrete forms criss-cross the mountainside.  

It was a big public work project as you can see the immense amounts of cement used to stabilize the track's slice through the mountains.  

   

Yesterday I attempted to visit  his grave site,  but it was locked down.  I didn't get to see much - just the outside of a memorial/museum building.  

After all It's Good  Friday,  according to the Orthodox calendar, or as they say in Serbia, Heavy Friday.

I had promised Neshko's father that I would honor Tito by going.  

He tells me that he owes his good life to this leader.  With little education, he always had work and raised a fine family. On several occasions, I enjoyed his hospitality.  His son, my friend Neshko,  has a graduate degree and now works for positive social change in Macedonia.  Many say that Tito made communism work.  I'm sure there's a shadow side too, but the people of this region talk about a lot of good. It makes me curious to learn even more.  

The train ride connects a land locked Serbia with  the coastal mountains.  One hour into this 10 hour trip, I've passed through 14 tunnels.   I know, cause I'm counting on the back of my ticket. Just a little obsessive compulsive - huh?

Outside,  I'm slowly leaving the city and entering a mixed area of ex-urban living.  

Notice the clusters of newer homes - all with red tile roofs.  See the more traditional villages and fields lush with Spring life.  And then there're nasty belching industrial stacks.  Where's the EPA?

I'm thinking this scene will become a watercolor

Within a couple more hours,  I enter a rugged mountainous area thick with forest.  A few isolated homesteads dot the hillsides.  Two men tend several dozen bee hives.  There are no other houses in sight - so very interesting.  

The tunnels keep coming at me.   I count over 50 now. In total I'm told there will be over 260.  It's beautiful.  My train compartment window frames each landscape.   I'm captivated.  Enjoy a few as I'm doing.... 

Notice the aqua blue colors in the water

As I enter Montenegro, granite peeks through the forested mountains

Clouds are marvelous 

Underneath a high tressel a river zig-zags towards the sea

Imagine living in such a beautiful place

Do you know what this might be?  The signage says 1921,
I'm clueless.

By the way, I stopped counting tunnels after about 4 hours.  My total was 123 - although I nap for about 20 minutes.  I guess I'm not so obsessive compulsive after-all.