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The content and opinions expressed in this blog are mine. They do not represent the US Government or US Peace Corps - Jud Dolphin

Wednesday, September 12

WHY GLOBUS

If I mention that I’m going to live in Mexico for 3 months, a lot of people see dark images in their imagination. Fear-mongering does have its affect. 

But for today, go with me and take a glimpse into the Mexican life I’m discovering.

See, bright colored tissue paper, which come all the way from China, transformed by artistic culture. 

It’s the Regatta de Globus. 

Every September, thousands of people come to see hundreds of Globi fill the skies. They are huge paper balloons handcrafted to the delight of all. I’m fortunate to be here.

For weeks, extended family and community teams have been fashioning their unique designs. Each team will create more than 20 to be launched into the skies. 

They come in all shapes and sizes – round cylinders, long tubes, heart shapes, cartoon characters, and more. No two are alike.
The designs are striking.  They causes me to think, “How did they do that?”

The answer comes through cooperation carefully following the template and pasting the pieces together. 
Notice the man fanning air into the balloon.

Slowly over weeks of work, the design emerges.

On Festival day one by one, they fill the Globus with hot air thanks to many hands and a blow torch. 
 At the last moment, a kerosene doughnut is inserted and lit to keep the hot air going as the Globus is launched.
  
Wonderful!


But maybe the more Interesting question is not how did they do it but, why. 

Why do they do launch so many Globus year after year? From all that I can determine, it’s not a competition. There’s no big prize money. The artistic creations are not sold.

Some will soar disappearing over mountain ridge as specks while others will quickly abort into fire and ashes.
Excitement:  A beer bottle strikes electrical lines in a flash
 Tissue paper can burn fast when the winds twist the fancy creation or the design is not as stable as hoped for.   
Either way, all this work is soon gone. My Yankee mind keeps asking, “What’s the purpose.”

For sure, a Globus brings people together. Imagine hands cutting paper and exactly joining the pieces together.
I love this team
See the pride in the faces of men and women, boys and girls of all ages as they work together. Young kids and teenagers too are learning just as the older ones did before them. 

I’m impressed with the strength of families and community. Grandparents sit smiling with broad approval. There’s so much joy here. This is Ajijic, Mexico.

Mauricio Higuera is President of the Globeros Committee. He’s quoted as saying, the transformation of paper into the form of a balloon “is realizing how with something as fragile as paper, you can build something so big and beautiful and apart (from that) it flies.”

This team proclaims the message
Globos of paper from China 
He continues, “It’s a way of to show the skills of the people. It’s a way to show culture.”
This artistic expression shown by Globus is a source of pride and recognition of the creative spirit that lives here in Ajijic, Mexico.

I want to see it all. I make my way to the Futbal Field on the east side of town. 

I’m becoming more accustomed to long walks. Good for health and weight….they say. 
Typical homes and cobble stone streets
I pass block houses, many of which are painted with bright colors. 

Often extended families live here although some are being gentrified by gringos.

In the distance I see my first Globus. I quicken my pace not knowing that there will be so many more to appreciate. 

 Here’s what I see….
A beautiful Easter cross is launched
but winds cause it to tumble and burn



You gotta notice the children


















Sponge Bob in all his glory.  However he'll soon twist, turn and burn 

Crowds were among the largest 


A team effort to launch


Peanut vendor offers snacks
Street vendors feed the hungry crowd.  

Now I’m beginning to understand why there’s a Regatta de Globus. 


It’s a day for fun and celebration…for community love and pride...for the creativity and art in the Mexican soul…and to see how paper, coming all the way from China, can be transformed and fly into the Mexican sky.


Next time, someone fear-mongers Mexico, remember and tell them about the Regatta de Globus in all its colorful and human wonders.

Monday, August 27

JOY in MARIACHI


I’ve returned to Mexico. For the next three months, Ajijic on Lake Chapala will be home. I’ve come here to teach some English, grow as an artist and meet others while exploring the Mexican culture.

I’m about an hour’s drive form Guadalajara in the Mexican State of Jalisco (in light green). It’s dominated by Mexico's biggest mountain range -the Sierra Madre - and a volcanic range creating many canyons, gorges and plateaus.  

At the end of the rainy season, the burnt brown mountains have transformed into deep tones of green and new life.  

Jalisco is known as the heart and soul of Mexico.  Here a rich culture of music and dance and art developed.  

Ever changing and adapting, it has retained a distinctive Mexican flair and swagger.

On my flight I happen to sit next to and behind a group of Mariachis. They are on their way to the International Mariachi Festival in Guadalajara.

We get to talking. My seat-mate was born in the USA, but as a young man immigrated back to Mexico to live and thrive. 

I ask him, “Why Mariachi besides the income? Quickly he says, “It’s my passion...identity...life.” I want to learn more...


Mariachi emerged out of the long history  of Mexico's conquest, occupation and rebirth. 

Indigenous people were overwhelmed by Spanish conquest in the 1500s. Then so many foreign ships sailed westward.  For more than 300 years, European and African immigrants flooded the land bringing their own cultures.

In the Jalisco area, elements from immigrant cultures were blended into a unique Mexican sound - Mariachi. 

These songs were part of village life and almost always accompanied by dancing and lots of love and good humor. The children learned the old songs on the laps of parents.  Over time the music adapted to new living situations - always staying fresh and lively.  

I’m beginning to understand the depth of Mariachi and why my seat-mate has such a passion for it.

Mariachi exploded from Jalisco to the entire Country in the 20th century. With the help of mass media – radio and TV – people fell in love with it. 

 Even without knowing the language, I feel it.  Mariachi exudes energy, culture and style. It brings joy.

To learn a lot more click here   

I’m indebted to Mike Champa of Miami University, Ohio for his study and giving me a deeper understanding.

With my new group of Mariachi friends, we exit the plane. We hang together through immigration and customs procedures. Then they help me negotiate a good price for a taxi.  Wonderful!

With gratitude – Gracias – I’m on my way. My mind is already planning a trip back to Guadalajara and the Mariachi Festival.

Here’s a sampling of what I experience during this joyful parade.


Improvised dress turns heads



Let the parade begin


Music and dance fill the streets
Singing from the heart
Friendship is contagious
Mariachi from Estados Unidos
Beautiful and Proud
Listen to some more Mariachi  Feel the joy...




Saturday, April 21

BIENVENIDOS AJIJIC

Here I am in Ajijic. It's located in the North Central Highlands of Mexico about an hour south of Guadalajara. Coming here has been an idea brewing in my mind for nearly a year.


I've been realizing that I'm more satisfied and happy when meeting people of different cultures and living new adventures.  

Since retiring, I've been blessed with Peace Corps service in Ukraine and Macedonia, teaching English to new immigrants in Washington, DC and a recent Peace Pilgrimage to Hiroshima, Japan.

 
So for me, it seems natural to book a two week exploration of Mexico. It reminds me of earlier days when I served as a Vista Volunteer in the War on Poverty in Canutillo, a small village in EL Paso County on the Mexican border.



Ajijic sits on the largest fresh water lake of Mexico - Lake Chapala. The water had pollution problems in the past, but now pelicans and egrets fish the shores. People do too. Ajijic has its roots in a fishing village that's growing with expats.

Ever since AARP and other North American publications named it an ideal place for retirement, gringos have come.  

They've created a "Southern Caravan" into the heart of Mexico.  They come looking for ideal weather, inexpensive cost of living and a community of English speakers.  

I'm looking for opportunities to meet other artists, find inspiration in the beauty of lakes mountains and towns, engaged in some community service work and build lasting friendships.  

I walk the cobble stone streets - carefully! They take some getting use to. I feel my foot and ankle muscles stretching to accommodate the uneven surface. 


After awhile, I do find my gait. It's like getting physical therapy with each step. My counter logs 10,000 steps and on some days as much as 15,000.  I've had some issues with neuropothy, but the discomfort has lessened or so it seems.  

Maybe it's a placebo effect.  Whatever, I'm enjoying the walks.  

Do you hear the greetings?  Mexicans almost always greet one another and gringos too when passing on the street.

A friendly "Hola or Buenas Tardes" brightens my spirit and reminds me that we're all part of the same human family even when from different cultures.  











   I'm enjoying the sights. Walk with me...

Small colorful homes line the streets. Doorways open to the sidewalks. Women sweep and scrub the space in front. Men tinker with a bicycles or motor bikes.
In the evening families bring out tables and sell street-foods. Older folks sit on stoops and watch the games of youngsters. Teens focus on smart phones, of course. Men and women talk over the day or at least that's what I think they are doing given my limited Spanish.  

It's the Mexican way of life.  I love it.



Other homes hide behind gates.  Often they include several buildings - a main house and smaller places known as Casitas. 

I'm staying in such a place - a bed room with kitchen and table for preparing simple meals.  

My host and hostess stay connected to their community by welcoming neighbor kids to use their pool, giving scholarships to students and sponsoring a local football team. 

They join others in the "Needle Pushers" knitting sweaters for primary school children and layettes for new-borns. I'm impressed by the ways they've become part of the Mexican community.

Unfortunately, my host tells me that's not always the way. Too many expats cocoon themselves in luxurious homes dotting the hillsides of Ajijic. 

Notably these gringos are detached from Mexican life.  I feel sorry for them.  They've chosen to narrow their experience by not being more engaged in lending a helping hand.  Life is more than a house no mater how beautiful.  

Walking towards Lake Chapala, I see my first Great White Egrets.



Wow, what a stunning sight.  I find a shady tree and soak in the beauty.  Can you spot the Pelican?

I'm mesmerized by the color of the water.  It's a delicate blue-green with golden highlights where the sun light hits the tops of ripples.  

I get out the watercolors and try to bring to paper what my eyes see.  Maybe a painting will emerge, but not today.  

Relax and just enjoy.

Later I take to the streets again.  I happen upon an art studio.  

Ken Gosh, the artist stands in the doorway and welcomes me in.  The space is lovely - an open courtyard of trees and hanging vines and of course, pictures on every wall.

Ken has lived in Ajijic for many years with his partner.  He's an award winning water-colorist although his style is quite unique.  I show him some of my work.  He invites me back to meet some of his students. I'm delighted - my first Ajijic art connection. 

Check out his art work here.  

I tell Ken about my interest in teaching English.  Immediately, he says, "You must meet Maria." 

Ken leads the way around the corner to the Biblioteca.  I'm learning that I won't feel like an outsider for long.  Instead of being stand-offish, people here are proactive in helping.  What a wonderful part of the culture.

Soon I'm sitting with Maria. She conducts an extensive ESL program with volunteers.

"Each year we'll have about 300 students from ages 15 to 100," she says with a smile and admits that they're still waiting for that 100 year old. She gives me a quick tour and we discuss curriculum and teaching methods.
  
We feel simpatico.

I share my search for housing.  Maria offers help.  "Come by tomorrow.  I have a friend who may be renting a place."  I'm very appreciative.

It's morning and I'm off to Martins.  He's opened a new business.  It's a a small restaurant where  street-food is brought inside and around colorful tables.   

I'm greeted warmly by Martin's daughter, "How are you today, Jud."  I respond with, "Estoy bien."  We've been helping each other with language in a series of mini-lessons.  She's doing better than I am.

Martin is a warm gracious man.  We have conversations about his new business.  I try to give lots of support.  

Coming here feels so comfortable.  I hope I can find an apartment nearby so that we can build our friendship.  

As my exploration enters its final days, I can say without hesitation - "I'm so glad I found Ajijic."


I'm looking forward to returning for a longer time teaching some English, doing some art and enjoying all the adventures of the Mexican culture.


Adios Ajijic - See you again soon!