AJIJIC, MEXICO IN PICTURES

Is one picture worth a thousand words?  

Let's give it a try....

Lake Chapala from a mountain vista  

Central to my adventure is Lake Chapala and the village of Ajijic on its northern shore.  Aijic emerged from the lives of indigenous tribes.  In ancient times, Ajijic meant a "place where water springs forth."  

Even today, Lake Chapala is still the largest lake in all of Mexico - 14 miles long. It's about 40 miles south of Guadalajara in the central region of Mexico.     

Long before the Spanish came, ancient peoples inhabited the lake area and came and went as the waters rose or receded.  They fished and raised their families here.  Much of their culture remains.    

Often I walk the lake shore in the evening.

Sunsets never disappoint

In the 1920s, intellectuals and dissidents came to Ajijic mixing with native people.  Another influx began in the 1950 - 60's.  And still another is happening now as mostly Canadians and North Americans look for retirement places.    

Art and Creativity are abundant companions 

in Ajijic.

Community beautification 

A Giant Lizard keeps watch

Fanciful Imagination enlivens a bare wall

Striking a pose in front of the Cultural Center

Carved from a log and painted by a local artist

More sunsets reflect across Lake Chapala. 

It's a beauty

Enjoy music, dance and more

After school, students practice in the park

A few ESL students share a song

Almost every month parades
and festivals flood through the streets

Ancient ritual reenacted

Mariachis are the soul of Mexican music

Original from Ajijic

Danza de los Voladores - Dance of the Flyers

Additional video from YouTube

Overlooking Ajijic Plaza 
where friends and family gather

A Xenophobic Christmas

A friend encourages me to go to Church on Christmas Eve. “Great music, It’ll put you into the Christmas Spirit.”

I'm already moving in that direction.

Earlier in the day, I travel to a neighboring village and help Operation Feed provide a hundred families with food and gifts and toys for their children. 

Families gather at Operation Feed

 The program is a collaboration between Mexicans and expats. A local Mexican leader and restaurateur spear-heads this and many other weekly projects.

Augustine and volunteers become a Christmas message

I meet two women who tell me more.

“We’re the egg ladies,” they announce. “We help sort eggs for distribution out into the village.”

They tell me it’s a volunteer job but they pay 200 pesos each time for the privilege. 

Imagine paying to volunteer. “It’s egg money,” smiles one of the women. “How else can we have money for eggs?”

The organization’s motto is... Stop The Hunger - Start The Hope. 

What a wonderful Christmas message, I think.  

I hop on a crowded bus and make my way to music and Christmas eve worship. 

As expected, the music is grand. Harmonies mix with congregational singing. We sing O Come All Ye Faithful – all 6 verses.

Nativity fills the Plaza at Ajijic

The sermon starts with a light hearted joke and promises to be brief. 

A story unfolds of expats celebrating a first Christmas in Mexico. “We had no church, but we made a large living space feel like church.” 

We settled into traditional Christmas worship even though we all had been transported from our homes to Mexico. It felt good to be with other expats.

Afterwards continues the Pastor, “we decide to go into the town to see how Mexicans celebrate Christmas. 

We had images of a Mexican procession moving slowly towards the Church with candles in hand,”

Posada in Mexico

But in stark contrast, we meet “utter chaos.”

Raucous, loud, alcohol out-of-control masses are some of the derogatory words used.  Negative caricatures follow in describing this Mexican Christmas celebration.  It jolts me.  

The sermon continues poking fun at Mexican behaviors.  A few congregants begin to snicker.  

I’m feeling more uncomfortable. To me, it sounds xenophobic. Why would a sermon poke fun at Mexicans on Christmas eve in Mexico? 

It must be something unconscious – maybe an ignorance saying that our way is the better way.  Could that be why some of the people around me are now laughing and not growing more uncomfortable as I am.  

The sermon concludes with Church bells says the Pastor. “At first, a single bell rings out.  And then others join in. Soon many bells are filling the town air and quieting the Mexicans,” reassures the Pastor. 

He ends the sermon with a broad smile.  Next is passing the Peace of Christ.

People clasp hands and a few hug one another. An older woman quickly clasped my hand and then just as quickly turns away. 

What's it like to be an outsider?

Huh? I look around towards others, but no one returns the glance or makes an effort.

Even the Pastor, when he comes down the aisle, skips my row. I’m not sure why. But it does make me feel like an outsider. 

It’s then that I decide to leave before Eucharist is served. I think, “It’s not a place for me.”

On the bus ride home, the sermon still rumbles within. I need an antidote.

I regain some comfort in seeing ordinary Mexican men and women with children in tow making their own way home. A guy plays his guitar and fills the bus with song. I pass him some money. 

 A young man stands to give up his seat. I shake my head, not necessary, but with a smile, he insists. Unexpected kindness on a crowded bus.

I get home. I watch a new movie, The Two Popes, and regain some perspective. I surf the net for sermons and Christmas messages.

In spite of my recent experience, I’m reminded how lively Christmas Spirit can be. 

Congregations do act with kindness, justice and peace and not just at Christmas time. They stretch themselves to welcome the stranger and embrace the forgotten.

Sure, the sermon was unfortunate. But ironically, it opens a broader reflection into the insidious persistence of xenophobia. 

It can slide into conversations and sermons without awareness. I feel a new urgency for the message of Christmas...especially here in Mexico.

Tear gas used on Mexican families at the border

Too many cruel and hate-filled images of Mexicans are in our media and on the lips of our leaders. 

Insistently Xenophobia seeps into awareness smearing good people who just want to live... a little differently.

Singing with some students at a Christmas party

I want to keep my focus on the kindnesses I’ve experienced here and embrace human differences that surround me everywhere in Mexico.

So when the bells ring out tonight for Christmas eve, I’ll be thinking of angelic words proclaimed to ordinary shepherds.

Peace on Earth and Good Will to All.

Older women belong here

I’ll keep remembering expats paying to volunteer and a Mexican leader who cares for the poor and lives  the Christmas message every week... 

End The Hunger. 

 Start The Hope

http://www.operationfeedsjc.org/

Ajijic, Mexico Adventure Begins

I’m here at the Guadalajara airport. A plane full of people and I await the portable steps to disembark. It won’t be long. I see several workers bringing the stairway across the tarmac.

Destination: Ajijic on Lake Chapala

Now unexpectedly my first adventure begins.

I gaze down the steep and rickety stairs. “Oh well, one foot at a time,” I say to myself. It’s going to be slow, but that’s the way it’s gotten to be these days. 

The people behind me will have to be patient – not that anyone is complaining. I’m grateful.

And then surprise.

Out of nowhere, an attendant motions me towards a wheelchair. I demur thinking not me. Am I really looking that old? But with gestures, the man insists. “Senor, por favor.”

I take a seat. Quickly, we make it towards Customs. He ushers me from counter to counter. When you’re in a wheel chair, there’s no zig-zagging in lines. 

 A wheelchair person goes to the head of the line. What can be an arduous process is complete in record time.  Senior privilege. 

I get up to thank the attendant and be on my way, but he jesters - No No, Senor.  I’m captive to his hospitality. It’s onward to baggage claim and then towards a taxi...right to the curb.

Overlooking the Plaza in the center of Ajijic

Of course, there are friendly and caring people everywhere, but I’m especially thankful for this hospitality tonight. 

 I can’t help but wonder if his kindness might be an omen of good things to come.

The next morning I’m eager to re-acquaint myself with Ajijic.

I was here last year for 3 months teaching Adult ESL English and now I’m back for 6 more months. 

I love teaching and feel like I’m able to give back a little especially with all the rancor Mexican people have endured from our American politicians.

My Ajijic home is a two room apartment. It’s like Peace Corps living all over again. It’s a family run hotel about two block away from the main Plaza. It’s called Hotel Italo. 

Some would say it’s rustic and it does show vintage age, but my two rooms are spacious and have everything I’ll need. There’s even a wall of windows flooding my space with light...wonderful.

Outside is a patio. It’s like an extra room. Butterflies and humming birds skip from flower to flower sipping nectar. 

I’m delighted. 

 A row of pigeons stand guard on the walls of the neighboring church.

Look closely on the left ,
behind the turret is the hotel where I live

San Andres Church is rooted in the Spanish conquest of indigenous people around 1530.  Soon afterwards, the Catholic missionaries followed and began converting.    

Because Ajijic was a fishing village, they named the new  Church after Andrew, one of the disciples who Jesus called fisher of men. 

Hotel Italo was squeezed in a plot of land next to the Church around 1975.  

I have a charming view of the bell tower about 50 feet away from my patio. 

Imagine the surprise that awaits me each morning as bells announce early mass and the start of the day.

DONG! DONG! DONG! Dingaling dingaling dingaling! 

So since it’s easy to get up early in Ajijic (Does anyone have a choice?), let’s get ready and greet our day. 

 

Typical street scene

Walk down the cobble stone streets with me. 

Happy colors every where

Notice the small homes painted in ever so bright colors. 

Taking up a 4x8 foot wall space,
this Lizard looks friendly

Street art is carefully painted onto empty wall spaces. What do you think of this colorful lizard?

Often metal gates, like large garage doors, hide beautiful garden spaces punctuated with quaint casitas inside. Mexican people love their gardens.

Lush gardens

People say that the weather here is nearly perfect. 

Looking across Lake Chapala

Average day time temperature ranges from mid 70s to mid 80s year round.  Rarely does it get into the 90s or fall below 70. And when it rains, it’s most often at night. 

At 5,000 feet surrounded by mountains and nestled in a valley with a 14 mile long Lake Chapala, it seems nearly perfect. 

Locals make a joke asking "so where's that perfect place?"  

I like taking long walks and have a goal of strolling all the streets of Ajijic during my sojourn here. I’m, doing about 3 miles a day – not bad for an older guy!

While wandering to the end of the road,
I discovered this sight

Along the way, I take picture and imagine how I might turn the images into watercolors.

As I pass people, I'm greeted with an “Hola or Buenas Dias.”  People are genuinely friendly.

I meet these women - sisters and mother, I believe. 
Weeks later I meet the older woman again.
She insists on a lengthy conversation holding my hand the entire time.
I don't understand the Spanish but I do feel the human warmth. 
She will be 100 years in January.

Often, people pause and say, “Como esta?” asking, “How are you?” It’s like a mini- conversation making strangers feel connected and welcomed.  

I love it.

It reminds me of Satchmo Arstrong’s beloved song, What a Wonderful World. 

Take a listen to this version sung by young and old from around the world.  

Bookmark it for restoring hope and goodwill whenever you feel the need.   

It's great to be here.  My life in Ajijic is beginning again.

JOY in MARIACHI

I’ve returned to Mexico. For the next three months, Ajijic on Lake Chapala will be home. I’ve come here to teach some English, grow as an artist and meet others while exploring the Mexican culture.

I’m about an hour’s drive form Guadalajara in the Mexican State of Jalisco (in light green). It’s dominated by Mexico's biggest mountain range -the Sierra Madre - and a volcanic range creating many canyons, gorges and plateaus.  

At the end of the rainy season, the burnt brown mountains have transformed into deep tones of green and new life.  

Jalisco is known as the heart and soul of Mexico.  Here a rich culture of music and dance and art developed.  

Ever changing and adapting, it has retained a distinctive Mexican flair and swagger.

On my flight I happen to sit next to and behind a group of Mariachis. They are on their way to the International Mariachi Festival in Guadalajara.

We get to talking. My seat-mate was born in the USA, but as a young man immigrated back to Mexico to live and thrive. 

I ask him, “Why Mariachi besides the income? Quickly he says, “It’s my passion...identity...life.” I want to learn more...

Mariachi emerged out of the long history  of Mexico's conquest, occupation and rebirth. 

Indigenous people were overwhelmed by Spanish conquest in the 1500s. Then so many foreign ships sailed westward.  For more than 300 years, European and African immigrants flooded the land bringing their own cultures.

In the Jalisco area, elements from immigrant cultures were blended into a unique Mexican sound - Mariachi. 

These songs were part of village life and almost always accompanied by dancing and lots of love and good humor. The children learned the old songs on the laps of parents.  Over time the music adapted to new living situations - always staying fresh and lively.  

I’m beginning to understand the depth of Mariachi and why my seat-mate has such a passion for it.

Mariachi exploded from Jalisco to the entire Country in the 20^th century. With the help of mass media – radio and TV – people fell in love with it. 

 Even without knowing the language, I feel it.  Mariachi exudes energy, culture and style. It brings joy.

To learn a lot more click here   

I’m indebted to Mike Champa of Miami University, Ohio for his study and giving me a deeper understanding.

With my new group of Mariachi friends, we exit the plane. We hang together through immigration and customs procedures. Then they help me negotiate a good price for a taxi.  Wonderful!

With gratitude – Gracias – I’m on my way. My mind is already planning a trip back to Guadalajara and the Mariachi Festival.

Here’s a sampling of what I experience during this joyful parade.

Improvised dress turns heads

Let the parade begin

Music and dance fill the streets

Singing from the heart

Friendship is contagious

Mariachi from Estados Unidos

Beautiful and Proud

Listen to some more Mariachi  Feel the joy...